Wednesday, October 21, 2015

A Few Day in Burgundy

Evening all!  It has been a full few days, and I haven't gotten a chance to write until now.

Monday, we left Paris by train (TGV, so fast!) and arrived in Dijon.  Dijon is probably the biggest town/city in the Burgundy wine region.  We've used it as home base for the past few days.

The Burgundy region is southwest of Paris and is responsible for some of our favorite wines.  Additionally, Burgundy is home to something like 40+ Grand Cru plots and some of the most expensive wine in the world (think Romanee Conti, selling for $10,000 a bottle).

Tuesday, we went to the town of Beaune, about 50 miles south of Dijon.  In the morning, we toured Hotel-Dieu or Les Hospices de Beaune, a 15th century hospital for the poor that was set-up in Beaune.  It was interesting learning about medicine and medical science over the centuries.  The original hospital was in use up to the 1950s!  Today, they have a new, more modern hospital that is mainly financed by the sales of the Hospices de Beaune wines.  In the 15th century, someone donated several hectares of land to the hospital, and, today, most of it produces premier cru and grand cru wines, so they sell for a pretty penny!

Tuesday afternoon, we took a bike tour through the vineyards and learned more about the wine, the region, the terroir.  We learned that there is a lot of limestone under the soil, which plays a role in the flavor of the grapes.  Burgundy wine is generally classified based on the region it was produced, instead of the type of grape (they always use pinot noir and chardonnay grapes).

And finally, today, Wednesday, Tang, Mama D and I went along the Route des Grand Crus.  This is the area between Dijon and Beaune that is dotted with little towns, and each town is full of different winemakers.  And all along the countryside between these towns are the vineyards.  We took a bus to Nuit-St. Georges and walked through the vineyards about 5 kilometers to Chateau du Clos de Vougeot.  Clos de Vougeot is where the monks originally began making Burgundian wine in the 12th and 13th centuries.  Anyway, we had a great time walking through the vineyards and eating some of the grapes.  Don't worry, grapes were harvested in September for the wine making.  Anything left on the vines was for the birds and curious travelers!

The well at Hospices de Beaune

The main hall of the Hospices de Beaune.  This was a working hospital from the 1440s to the 1950s.  It is currently set-up like it was in the 1440s, with 30 beds lining the great hall and a chapel with an alter at the far end.

In the vineyards.  The town in the background is Beaune.



These vines here belong to Domain Romanee Conti and are probably all premier cru and grand cru producing vines.  The land here would sell for $40 million/hectare.  Also, we weren't allowed to walk through those vines.

Cross at the entrance to the Romanee Conti vines.

Chateau du Clos de Vougeot

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Marche de la Bastille

Sunday funday in Paris!  And it has been a foodie funday, so I'm super happy!

Today, we went to Marche de la Bastille, or the Bastille Market.  This is Paris's largest food market, held every Wednesday and Sunday.  Marches are held around Paris every day of the week, but this one was said to be the best and not to miss.

Tang and I went because we're food-lovers but also to do some shopping.  Many restaurants are closed on Sundays, so we decided to cook tonight (I love still having a kitchen while on vacation!).  We knew we'd find some great seasonal food that we couldn't get in the US.

Before we did our shopping, we just wandered the market.
Flower stalls

Tons of vegetable and fruit stalls - root vegetables are coming in so we saw lots of potatoes, turnips, hard squash

Clementines 

Lots of seafood stalls.  Several had cooked mussels, smoked fish or cooked lobster alongside tons of raw fish, shellfish, scallops in the shell, cockles... 


Rotisserie with suckling pig at the top, rows of chickens, lamb loins and, at the bottom, potatoes roasting in the drippings

Cheese everywhere!  This stall was specializing in Parmesan Reggiano.

More seafood.  The tray at the front is full of cockles.

Breads and pastry of all kinds.  This stall was certified organic.

Behind the display counters, they had several of these large plastic baskets full of bread to refill the displays.

Shellfish

We had to stop for a snack... 6 macroons for 4.90.  From back to front, almond, pistachio, coffee, raspberry, lemon and chocolate.

After wandering the market and having some delicious falafel for lunch, we did our shopping.  Tonight's menu: pain de campagne (crusty country bread) with chevre (goat cheese), leek and mushroom risotto with sage, and figs with honey and creme fraiche for dessert.  And, of course, a great white wine. :D

Leek, pain de campagne, figs, honey, cepes (mushrooms) and sage.

These are cepes or porcini mushrooms.  In the States, you can usually find them dried, and they must be rehydrated before use.  

Tomorrow, we take the train to Dijon for our excursion in the Burgundy wine region.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

Being an Art Nerd: Day 2 - Sainte Chapelle and Musee d'Orsay

Happy Saturday, friends!  Today, we finished out our art tour with Saint Chapelle and the Musee d'Orsay.

First stop was Sainte Chapelle.  It is located on the Ile de la Cite, one of the islands in the Seine.  Notre Dame is also on this island, and it is very easy to do both of them in the same day.  However, Sainte Chapelle is much smaller inside than Notre Dame, so the queue for entry takes longer.  Therefore, we went back early this morning and got in with the first round of people.

Sainte Chapelle was built by Louis IX (now St. Louis) to house the relics of the Passion of the Christ he had acquired, including Christ's crown of thorns.  Today, they can be seen in Notre Dame.  The royal family also worshiped here.

On the outside, Sainte Chapelle is not much to look at when compared to Notre Dame.  It was built relatively quick in about 8 years, compared to the 200 years for Notre Dame's construction.  As a result of the quick construction, the exterior is nothing particularly special, in my opinion.  But don't let the exterior deceive you.  The inside's where all the excitement is...


The exterior of Sainte Chapelle

Beautiful stained glass interior

Pretty incredible, huh?  Each panel of stained glass down the side depicts different Old Testament books - Genesis, Exodus, Numbers, Joshua, Judges, Isaiah, Ezekiel, Jeremiah, Job, Esther and Kings.  My pictures don't even begin to do these windows justice.

Cain and Abel


The lamps for the Lord's temple

The windows directly over the alter depict the life and passion of Christ, and the rose window directly over the doors shows the apocalypse.

Passion of the Christ and the alter

Rose window depicting the Apocalypse

Christ as the Returning King at the Apocalypse

 After finishing our visit at Sainte Chapelle, we went to the Musee d'Orsay.  It is the museum that houses lots of Impressionist paintings and lots of wonderful sculptures.  The building is an old train station right across the River Seine from the Louvre.

Below are some of my favorites, but I didn't spend much time taking pictures of the paintings.  Oh, and Luncheon on the Grass is included below, so the following are slightly not-safe-for-work...

Girls at the Piano by Pierre-Auguste Renoir 
In later life, Renoir had developed severe rheumatoid arthritis, so it was very painful for him to paint and hold brushes.  So, he literally taped the brushes to his hands.

Blue Waterlilies by Claude Monet

Country Dance (L) and City Dance (R) by Pierre-Auguste Renoir

14-year old ballerina by Edgar Degas
Degas was accused of using a taxidermied body and covering it in bronze due to the realism of the sculpture.  Additionally, the realism of the sculpture also showed the toll dancing took on the body.

Luncheon on the Grass by Edward Manet
This painting was rejected by the Parisian Salon (fancy schmancy art exhibition).

Self-portrait by Vincent Van Gogh


The Church at Auvers by Vincent Van Gogh
For my Doctor Who friends, there was no alien in the painting... :D


Friday, October 16, 2015

Being an Art Nerd: Day 1 - Notre Dame and the Louvre

Warning: I'm gonna nerd out a bit in this post.  I got to go to some of the best places for art in the world!

First, we went to the Notre Dame.  I have wanted to go to Notre Dame since I was like eight years old.  Granted, a certain Disney movie did have something to do with it but reading about Notre Dame and learning about Gothic architecture was my gateway to art in general.  So, to say I was excited to go to Notre Dame is barely scratching the surface.



We walked around the church to be able to look at all the exterior architecture.  I was especially excited to look at the flying buttresses, which allows for the church to have it's height without causing the walls to bow outwards.



Inside, every space was crammed with statues, painting and chapels to the different saints.  My favorites were the chapels of Joan of Arc and Mary Magdalene.

Statue of Joan of Arc

Wall painting in Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene showing her washing Christ's feet.

We also were able to climb to the top of cathedral and take close up pictures of the gargoyles and stone carvings.  Some of the gargoyles had stood the test of time better than others, but each one of them had their own facial expressions and character.



Next, we went to the Louvre!


First of all, the Louvre is huge!  We were there for four hours, and we maybe saw a third of it.  Also, there are many more impressive statues and paintings there than La Jouconde (aka the Mona Lisa).  They have some of the marble reliefs from the Temple of Zeus, one of the ancient world wonders.  They have beautiful Islamic floor mosaics.  Some of my favorite sculptures were in the Greek wing:
The muse of tragedy 

Venus de Milo/Aphrodite

Artemis

Winged Victory at Samothrace - newly restored and unveiled

The paintings at the Louvre seem to focus mostly on the Renaissance and Romantic periods with lots of selection from French and Italian painters.  Two of my favorite paintings are below.

Liberty Leading the People by Eugene Delacroix

The Coronation of Napoleon by Jacques-Louis David

Close up on Napoleon crowning Josephine with Pope Pius to the far right.  The elevated figure seated in the middle of the painting is Napoleon's mother, who wasn't actually at the coronation.


More art tomorrow as we go to Saint Chapelle and Musee D'Orsay.